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combatshotgun

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Reply with quote  #1 
One I have built and rebuilt a lot of shotguns.  Here is a very important tip to enhance your 870 or other pumps. When shooting fast we all tend to torque the forend.   I can tell to which side you torque by the striation marks on the barrel and wear on the action bars.   If your forend is rubbing the barrel, especially at the end of the racking motion it is simply not smooth.  Many of the synthetic forends have a 90 degree edge.   I take a utility knife and scrape it down both edges to round them off.  Scrape with the sharp edge of the blade, not try to cut.  I start at the high edge and keep working till it is down smooth.   This stops them from rubbing on the barrel.   As you scrap long slivers of plastic will come off.  Make sure both sides are equal and smooth.   Take it down as much as you want.   If you use a Dremil that is fine because it may get FYBAR’D and you have to buy another one from me.  

This will ensure your action is smooth as far to often the forends get just a fraction off and rub, especially at the near end of the cycling action where the barrel gets larger and the shooter does not even realize why the action is not as smooth.
000_5789.jpg 
 

Two -  The best way to breath life into an old 870 is simply get a new forend tube assembly.  In the above I mentioned we torque the forend.  Over time this bends and twist the action bars and as they cycle back into the receiver the rub and even slightly bind.   To tell if yours are bad remove your forend tube assembly.  Hold it up eye level pointing the action bars at your eyes.  You may see one twisted in and pointed up and they other twist out and pointing down or vice versa depending to which side you torque.  Some say bend them back and straighten them up but that is a very temporary fix as they will simply return to the same twisted bent state in a very few rounds.   The fix is a new forend tube assembly and you will be amazed how much smoother you pump is now.    Of other note this is also the reason you do not put a vertical forend on a pump.  That vertical forend acts as a lever and seriously increases the torqueing action and damaging your action bars.   


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RedGoat

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Reply with quote  #2 
JD, that’s some very good and useful info, especially about replacing the forend tube assembly. I have always assumed that the action bars would just get slicker with use, hadn’t really given a great deal of thought to the action bars taking a “set” that results in binding.

That said, I’ve come across a few guns that exhibited the twisting you’ve described, but I’ve always attributed it to using too much torque on the forend nut with the action bars still in the action.
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combatshotgun

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Reply with quote  #3 
It starts as the shooter cycles back.  We all do, well all but those guys busting 100 out of 100 and shooting tens of thousands of rounds.   One brings his Wingmaster into my shop every few years in the winter.  He shoots all around the state and is one fine shot.   His 870 is slicker then eel snot and over 20 years old with the same forend tube assembly.   I think we tactical shooters are the worse and think speed makes up for accuracy so we rack the thing not even thinking about coming smoothly to the rear.   I am guilty and I know it but old habits die hard.
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BruceR

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Reply with quote  #4 
Hell JD, I thought I was supposed to rack this gun "like I had a pair". Will shave down the edges of my synthetic forend a bit. Thanks for the tip.(Then I'll start racking the hell out of it again)
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combatshotgun

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Reply with quote  #5 
Yep, but racking back straight is a learned skill and I never learned it.  So, I FUBAR forend tube assemblies.  Not much any more as when the people of the State of Florida stopped paying for my ammo my trigger time went down.

Also of note is that bulky dedicated forend lights like the Surefire DSF don't help. The DSF is a horrible product and I refused to sell them.

 I am excited to see how the new Stream Light Dedicated Forend fits an 870 as pictures of it look slim and trim.   So, will the first guy to get one of those post a review for the rest of us?

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BruceR

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Reply with quote  #6 
Thanks for the heads up on the DSF. I was actually thinking about one but the damn thing costs more than my gun did.

Bruce
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combatshotgun

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Reply with quote  #7 
The Stream Light one is around $130.  Problem is that they are idiots and made it 850 lumens.   That's OK for outside but insane for inside and puts you at risk of blinding yourself if you hit a mirror, picture on the wall with a glass frame, window or even a stainless steel appliance.   For an entrance team it is awful as it back light the entire team.

The problem is that the people who design this stuff have never been there done that and go for the max.  And of course the guys that want the max pay for it.  A dual switch is the ideal thing with about 60 lumens for inside and what you can get outside.   But for a shotgun why do you need a light with a range of 300 plus yards on a 50 yard weapon.  Stupid is a word that comes to mind

I will get one once available and hopefully can change the bulb out.


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BruceR

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Reply with quote  #8 
Mirror, window? If you have white paint on your walls you're gonna be blinded. Let us know if you can mod it.(I need to stop posting here for a while, I feel like a stalker)
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combatshotgun

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Reply with quote  #9 
Will do.  Also could be dangerous outside and a passenger plane could land on you thinking you are an airport.
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BruceR

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Reply with quote  #10 
It might also come in handy if you want to send a Morse Code message to the International Space Station.(Damn!, I thought I was gonna stop posting for a while! I blame you JD)
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FlyBoyTim

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Reply with quote  #11 
https://www.streamlight.com/en/products/detail/index/tl-racker#
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combatshotgun

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Reply with quote  #12 
Don't stop.  We are a small group so there is plenty of band width.

Also, anyone want to the ISS use this link.  Enter your location and you will get exact times it will be visible.  Take the kids out to see it with you.  It will get them off the computer games and they will like looking at the schedule and going out to wait for it.

 https://spotthestation.nasa.gov

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D.J. north woods

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Reply with quote  #13 
That's what I love about our web sight, you poke around and you
can always find something you can use.
This is one of those why did I not think of that.
Thanks again J.D. Now I have something to do today.
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DWilson

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Reply with quote  #14 
Thanks for posting the information about the "torqueing", and the action bars, and forend tube.   I took a couple of my 870s apart with this in mind, because one of them, a 1972 purchase Wingmaster, has a spot during the cycle where it seems to hesitate if you fail to run it in a manly manner.   I figured this had something to do with me refinishing it a few years ago with Brownells "Alumahide" and I didn't get the mag tube polished back down enough that there was probably a high spot or two.   Anyway, I took the forend off another, later model 870 "Police Magnum" that I recently rebuilt and tried it on the older gun and discovered that the action bars are differently configured on the two guns.   The bolt and bolt carrier from the newer gun would not fit into the slots in the action bars of the old gun.   AS long as I kept the '72 bolt, bolt carrier plate, and action bars/forend together, no problem, and the same for the newer gun.  The older action bars have different slots cut in them, particularly the left one, where the carrier plate sits down in them.  
Is this a change I never noticed before, or a difference between a commercial Wingmaster, and a Police Magnum?  Always discovering something new!

FWIW,  regarding the dedicated light forends, such as the Surefire, and the newer Streamlight, I've had one of the original Surefire forends on my old TR870, and have used a couple different set-ups over the years, but have now finally settled on a short length of Magpul polymer rail screwed to the standard Remington Police forend at the 10:00 position, and when I mount a light, it's the new "Inforce" WML, gen 2.  This setup is lightweight, compact, and unobtrusive, and I can either mount the light, or leave it off as the situation requires.   So far, I really like the Inforce WML light, and can move it to a different shotgun or to an AR as desired, because I have now mounted these short rails at the 10:00 position on all my "social" shotguns and an AR.  Very lightweight, and simple.  See photos. 254.jpg  255.jpg 


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combatshotgun

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Reply with quote  #15 
The differences you are describing involve the Flex tab conversion.  Watch this video  https://youtu.be/sDCHHakvv6k   However, you do not need that on you sporting guns.
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