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DWilson

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Reply with quote  #16 
Interesting information on the video. Thanks.  I replaced the trigger group/shell carrier on the older Wingmaster several years ago with a "Police" trigger group with the flex-tab conversion.  However, the gun still has the original bolt, bolt carrier slide, and forend tube.   It doesn't get used much anymore, but seems to have worked fine every time I've had it out shooting since I changed the trigger group/lifter.   I wonder if that has something to do with the slight "hitch" in the pump action. 
Good video, Thanks! 
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CCCXI

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Reply with quote  #17 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWilson
Thanks for posting the information about the "torqueing", and the action bars, and forend tube.   I took a couple of my 870s apart with this in mind, because one of them, a 1972 purchase Wingmaster, has a spot during the cycle where it seems to hesitate if you fail to run it in a manly manner.   I figured this had something to do with me refinishing it a few years ago with Brownells "Alumahide" and I didn't get the mag tube polished back down enough that there was probably a high spot or two.   Anyway, I took the forend off another, later model 870 "Police Magnum" that I recently rebuilt and tried it on the older gun and discovered that the action bars are differently configured on the two guns.   The bolt and bolt carrier from the newer gun would not fit into the slots in the action bars of the old gun.   AS long as I kept the '72 bolt, bolt carrier plate, and action bars/forend together, no problem, and the same for the newer gun.  The older action bars have different slots cut in them, particularly the left one, where the carrier plate sits down in them.  
Is
this a change I never noticed before, or a difference between a commercial Wingmaster, and a Police Magnum?  Always discovering something new!

FWIW,  regarding the dedicated light forends, such as the Surefire, and the newer Streamlight, I've had one of the original Surefire forends on my old TR870, and have used a couple different set-ups over the years, but have now finally settled on a short length of Magpul polymer rail screwed to the standard Remington Police forend at the 10:00 position, and when I mount a light, it's the new "Inforce" WML, gen 2.  This setup is lightweight, compact, and unobtrusive, and I can either mount the light, or leave it off as the situation requires.   So far, I really like the Inforce WML light, and can move it to a different shotgun or to an AR as desired, because I have now mounted these short rails at the 10:00 position on all my "social" shotguns and an AR.  Very lightweight, and simple.  See photos. 254.jpg  255.jpg 



DWilson, could you please post more photos showing how you attached that rail? I've been thinking of doing something similar, but want to make sure I don't butcher it too badly. Did you use machine screws with nuts, or some sort of wood screw? Thanks
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DWilson

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Reply with quote  #18 
The process is actually pretty simple.  (if I can do it...Ha!)  The rail is a short 5 slot pic rail section sold by Magpul on their web site and it's the one for the "M-LOK" system.  (as opposed to "Key-Mod")    http://www.magpul.com/mlok    I bought 6 of them at the time and now have them on 4 different shotguns, including a Mossberg 590A1, and another on an AR.   The one I have left, still in the package, I took photos of that, so you can see what you're ordering,  and a spare factory Rem. police forend, but my tech savvy is not yet up to getting them onto this post.  :-( 
It comes with two substantial screws that will secure the rail to the forend, whether it's wood or polymer.
Take the forend tube off, remove the forend from the tube assembly, and set the tube and action bar assembly aside, so you're just dealing with the forend handle.  Decide where you want the rail mounted, and place it there, and mark where the (rail) holes are on the forend, then drill the holes with a 6/32 drill.   That size is just enough smaller than the screws, that they provide a good bite when you screw them on. 
When you are deciding the location for the rail, and marking the holes, be sure to allow enough clearance on both sides of the rail for the light mount to grip the edge of the rail.   
(At one point I was positioning the rail and had the top edge of the rail too close to the top edge of the handle (forend) and I couldn't have fit the light on because that top edge was too deep in the contour and didn't stick up far enough for the light mount to grab on to it. You'll see what I mean when you start positioning the rail.)    
The Inforce WML light is very compact, lightweight, and the controls are very user friendly.  The on/off switch falls right under your thumb as you grip the forend.    The process is much simpler than my description of it, Ha!   The 1st photo above should help you with placement.  Hope this helps.
Don
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CCCXI

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Reply with quote  #19 
Thanks Don! I think I've got a section or two of M-Lok rail in the parts pile, I'll give it a try.
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gralewaj

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Reply with quote  #20 
Question about the action bars and older bolt/slide assembly... Is a new slide assembly necessary when installing new action bars/tube assembly? I have an older 870 with the flex tab bolt but it's riding on the old style action bar and slide assembly. My fore end tube and bars are slightly twisted, should I include the new style slide assembly when I buy the fore end tube?
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combatshotgun

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Reply with quote  #21 
Yes.   If not you would have to gut the extra tab off the New forend tube assembly.   Some do that.
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Remington LE Armorer
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gralewaj

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Reply with quote  #22 
WOW! WOW! what a difference the new fore-end tube made. I've been so used to the way this 870 felt, I didn't think it could get any better. Thank you JD for the fastest shipping and best prices on the interweb for these genuine Remington parts.  Can't wait to get to the range with the old girl! 


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combatshotgun

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Reply with quote  #23 
Best way to breath new life into an old 870.  
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JD McGuire, Owner
AI&P Tactical, LLC
http://www.aiptactical.com
http://www.tacticalgunslings.com
Remington LE Armorer
Mossberg LE Armorer
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